| WEEKLY NEWSLETTERS
The White Roots of Winter 11/30/09
Often white food equates with bland food. But there are exceptions. Properly cooked Parsnips cannot be accused of being tasteless. However, they can be excessively sweet. So we have selected a variety which provides more flavour notes and less sugar. (It also has a more convenient straighter shape.) Then we harvest them before they have been exposed to too many sweet inducing frosts. Parsley Roots comes from a special variety of Italian Parsley selected for its tasty white roots. Often used as an ingredient in fine stocks, we seed ours late in the season (mid-July) so they are still small and tender for their mid-November harvest. Serve them as an exquisite “carrot”. Heirloom White Carrots are not as sweet as their modern orange cousins. But they do present a savoury carroty flavour. These tend to grow above the soil surface thereby producing green shoulders – which unlike green potatoes, green carrots are neither bitter nor poisoness. Think of them as yet another brilliant carrot colour. The King of White Roots is Salsify. This member of the lettuce family provides a lovely delicate oyster-like flavour. It is so special that French chefs will simmer it in milk to serve as a course on its own! Sometimes its black rooted cousin, properly called scorzonerra, receives the salsify moniker. Though black may be more cosmetically appealing, we think true White Salsify has a more sophisticated flavour profile.
(L to R) Parsnip, Parsley, Carrot, and Salsify Roots
Updates to the Now Available list
Though November has been delightful, some of our crops have still not recovered from the unusually cold and wet October. So we have temporarily taken Green Flesh Radish and Japanese Turnips off the list. We have reduced the 100g pack size of Coriander Seedlings to 50g (and of course also cutting the price in half). We now have a supply of slightly misshapen carrots we call “seconds”. If Cookstown Greens can use a minimum of 35 pounds, please call for price and availability of the specific colour(s) and size you can use.
A busy Slow Food Week ahead
The first week of December brings the Slow Food Toronto AGM on Sunday the 6th. This event will outline many of the coming Tasting, Cooking, Preserving, and Wisdom Workshops being scheduled nearly every week of 2010. This is the best time to volunteer for helping to manage events which most interest you. Now is a good time to Join Slow Food in support of all their excellent work being done in Toronto and around the world. On Tuesday the 8th there is a reception at Hart House for Jeff Crump’s fine new book, Earth to Table. I will be on a panel to discuss producers’ perspectives of growing for chefs. Then on Thursday the 10th is the first annual World Terra Madre Day being held at Food Share. Local Producers will provide samples of their winter products. This event is a benefit of the generous work provided by Chefs at last September’s Brick Works Picnic. It is a very busy time of year, but we hope to see you at these events.
Now is the time for Dahlia Roots 11/23/09
This popular summer flower provides us with delicious winter roots. Inside their tender brown skin is some juicy white flesh with a bright refreshing aromatic flavour. These can be enjoyed raw; or they can be cooked. But as with water chestnuts, they remain crunchy even after extended cooking. So why bother cooking them? Consider using these in appetisers, salads and desserts. If you wish to try some, please ask for a sample.
Dahlia Roots with some of their flowers.
Nothing New this week
We have just about finished our fall harvest. It was a long slow harvest as crops took their time to finish growing. We are still waiting for many of our final plantings to mature. As long as the weather remains mild and the nights not too frosty, most crops continue growing (albeit ever so slowly). Unfortunately, we have been harvesting some crops faster than they are replenishing themselves. So there is going to be very limited supplies of Chards and Kales. All the rainy weather in October delayed our greenhouse Chards for a couple more weeks. We apologize for any inconvenience.
A busy Slow Food Week ahead
The first week of December brings the AGM on Sunday the 6th. This event will outline many of the coming Tasting, Cooking, Preserving, and Wisdom Workshops coming nearly every week of 2010. This is the best time to volunteer for helping manage the events which most interest you. So now is a good time to Join Slow Food in support of all their excellent work being done around the world. On Tuesday there is a reception at Hart House for Jeff Crump’s fine new book, Earth to Table. Antony John (Soiled Reputation), Ruth Klahsen (Monforte Cheese), Dyson Forbes (son of Jonathon, Forbes Wild Foods), and David Cohlmeyer will be on a panel to provide producers’ perspectives. Then on Thursday the 10th is the first annual World Terra Madre Day being held locally at Food Share. Local Producers will provide samples of their winter products. This event is paid for by the good work at last September’s Brick Works Picnic. It is a very busy time of year, but we hope to see you at these events.
Invited to the State Dinner with Prince Charles 11/16/09
Remembrance Day was a day to remember. First I attended the very moving ceremony at the Ottawa cenotaph. As a frequent supplier for the Governor General I was invited to attend Prince Charles’ final dinner on his recent tour of Canada. Black tie was a bit of a change for this market gardener. But it was fun to see many of Canada’s leading providers and supporters of premium local foods. Prince Charles is a knowledgeable advocate of the benefits of quality local and Slow Foods, so he played a part in making sure key food people attended this event. We thank you for the recognition.
Chef Louis Charest’s dinner opened with Lake Winnipeg Goldeye, Northern pike
and western wild mushroom rillette served with Cortland apple prairie grain
croquette, Saskatchewan mustard seed and colza oil emulsion [Ottawa Citizen].
After the main course, Cookstown Baby Salad Greens were served.
It is always enlightening to see Robert Clark from Vancouver’s C Restaurant. (As a sous chef in Toronto he loved helping out on our deliveries.) He very generously provided me with a copy of his stunning new C Food cookbook. It was also a treat to again be with Chris Aerni from New Brunswick’s Rossmount Inn. (As a Toronto chef he loved to visit our farm for inspiration.) His mentor, Sinclair Phillip from Sooke Harbour House on the opposite side of the country, was also there. It was an honour to be with the always thoughtful Toronto restaurant critic, James Chatto. He is also coming out with a new book, an update of his very informative The Man Who Ate Toronto. And speaking of books, Anita Stewart, last week’s winner of the Cuisine Canada Food Culture Award for her book Anita Stewart’s Canada, was honoured by a seat at the head table. Ruth Klahsen artisan of the (soon to be back in business) Monforte Cheese had her Toscano cheese served to her while she wore an elegant long dress.
I also spoke with our Prime Minister, Speaker of the House, and Immigration Minister. It was most disappointing to hear how little they knew about food, and even more disappointing how much misinformation the have about food. We can only hope they absorb some of Prince Charles’ insight.
We are already nearly finished with large enough Baby Fennel Bulbs, Red Icicle Radishes, Cipollini Onions and Celeriac Roots. If the weather remains warm enough for the final planting to size up, we will have a bit more. But to avoid disappointment, we have decided to remove them from the Availability List. Chocolate Mint and beautiful liquoricy Sweet Cicely are again growing beautifully in the greenhouse.
The honour of a visit with Prince Charles 11/9/09 Last Friday down at the Brick Works construction site we participated in a chilly Farmers’ Market. [Going on at the same time was an Innovation, Leadership and Sustainability Forum attended by 105 CEOs from corporations across Canada and the US. They had a special meeting about what their corporations are doing and they would like to be doing to participate in a greener and more humane planet. These are Prince Charles’ passions. Learn more.]
from L to R: Nicky, Dave, Deb, Martin, and Derek, with Prince Charles
Much to the chagrin of the Prince’s handlers, he spent several minutes listening and conversing with each of the vendors. At one point he wanted to purchase a slice of Fifth Town’s sheep’s milk cheese, but upon realizing he had no cash, he asked Jim Flaherty (his host and Canada’s Finance Minister) to “spot” him $10 for the $9 slice. He also purchased a loaf of Red Fife bread from St. John’s Bakery after learning about the compassionate work this mission carries out. [Presumably these were for lunch on his flight to Victoria.] The Prince was charmed with vegetable-grower Ted Thorpe’s father who had shaken hands with the Prince’s grandfather in a pub during 1944. He was also fascinated with all the Direct Importing some of the market’s vendors undertake: Michael Sacco’s minimally processed Mexican chocolate, superb hand-rolled tea from Ronald Francis’ family estate in Sri Lanka, and Derek’s dedication for quality at Merchants of Green Coffee. The Prince smiled as he sampled some rare Civet coffee.
His visit to our table
We were joined with Martin Kouprie of Pangaea Restaurant who served Buffalo Tartar on our dahlia root slices. The Prince spoke about his pet project of re-popularizing mutton (which Martin had actually considered using in this presentation). As he knowingly admired our many fascinating vegetables, Deb told him he would be served Cookstown Greens salad at the upcoming Governor General’s Royal Banquet. He rejoined “Good, I always eat all my salad.” He asked me about how I dealt with all the challenges in introducing quality heritage local produce during the past 20 years. Actually I must say that my answers were directed more at the Minister of Finance, Jim Flaherty (who was standing next to the Prince). Our governments do keep us going with generous subsidies; but on the other hand they sure do not make it easy.
What we harvested last week
The Crosnes sized up extra early this year. So a new crop of pristine white gems are now ready for your finest presentations. Since we figured out the best way to preserve them through the winter, you will be able to enjoy this garnish vegetable for many months. Salsify grew conveniently large this summer. It has now been through enough frosts to become delectably sweet. Cookstown Greens will be able to savour these musky “oyster plants” all through the winter.
Squash are still in Season 11/2/09
Even though Thanksgiving and Halloween have passed, delicious squash is still in season. For something a little different from the standard varieties, consider potato-like Japanese Shishigatani Squash (for a unique “mashed potato”); sweet and fragrant Melonette Squash (perfect for desserts); chestnutty French Pottimorron Squash (perfect in hearty fall meals); and tart and dry Australian Baby Blue Hubbard (complements sugary garnishes). Brisk sales of Gold Nugget and Galeux, the two varieties we sold least of last year, were this year’s big hits. We appologize for running out. The old addage came true again: “Customers want what the farmer does not have.”
Shishigatani is uniquely potato-like Japanese squash. Please ask for a sample.
New this Week
Now that they have been hit by enough frosts, we have pulled out our crop of Parsley Roots. These wonderful roots make a mighty fine vegetable on their own. Or they add a beautiful flavour in clear stocks or for flavouring a classic White Sauce. Celeriac Roots can be used the same ways.
2nd Annual Ontario Culinary Tourism Summit
The first summit was a great way to learn ways to participate in the coming new way to boost business. Plus it was a great way to see and meet other chefs and suppliers who are interested in promoting Ontario as a culinary destination. To find out more about this November 9 event at the Royal Winter Fair, please Click here.
Not all carrots are orange! 10/26/09
Deb, our Harvest Manager, provided Mrs. Lawlor of Morning Glory Public School in Pefferlaw with some “mystery vegetables” for her Grade 2/3 scince class. They promptly wrote illustrated cards to tell us how amazed they were with Black Carrots and Candy-Cane Beets. The following day they were even more amazed at how good they tasted after being cooked. It was great to know they didn’t find them weird.
The Grade 2/3 students enjoyed sampling the “mystery food” from Cookstow Greens.
The main harvest is in full swing
With all the cold/wet weather we have run out of inside chores to do. So we must don raincoats and gloves and get to it. There have been several good frosts to sweeten and harden the roots for extended storage. As you have seen in previous Availability listings, all our potatoes, beets, carrots, turnips, and winter radishes are ready. Note that our “best guess” for the month we expect to run out helps you plan menus. Be sure to use this feature when planning menus for Cookstown Greens.
New this week:
Steady frosty nights nicely sweetened our Parsnips, so we have pulled them out to store in our root cellar. It was also time to pull out the Long White Leeks. These are actually the best tasting tender summer leeks so they do not store well. But we have learned to “transplant” them into the root cellar dirt floor to “grow” for extended life. Now that the leafy tops have frozen and transferred all their goodness into the roots, we pulled out our Dahlia Roots. These deliciously aromatic roots can be served raw or cooked. As with a water chestnuts they remain crunchy despite long cooking.
A new approach to farming
Margaret Webb wrote a fascinating series of articles for the Toronto Star. Please click to read the final story. From there you can link to the rest of the series.
Implications of early Frosts 10/19/09
The beautifully warm and sunny September was just what was needed to help mature crops after the record cool and cloudy summer. However, October’s steady diet of frosty mornings is again playing havoc with our schedules. The frosts have actually been great for hardening and sweetening our special winter roots such as Salsify, Celeriac, Parsley Roots, and Parsnips. (However, we have not yet had time in our schedule to harvest them. Later next week we should have some availabe.) On the other hand steady cold nights have nearly stopped the growth of new salad greens – even though they are covered to keep them warmer. Even more troublesome is that the repetitive frosts are damaging the salad green leaves we do have. So we may not have enough Baby Salad Greens for more than our currently expected orders. The greenhouse salad greens will not be ready for another two weeks.
Frosty Parsley Root leaves make sweeter roots.
Purple Garnishing leaves
There seems to be a constant search for purple garnishing leaves. Now that the hot weather is finished, our stunning deep purple and deliciously tart Purple Oxalis Leaves are once again growing vigorously. Try some. Baby Fennel Bulbs quite like the frosts so are still growing well. Sometimes we miss harvesting the fennel bulbs while they are still babies. Now is the time to harvest still-tender and delicately-flavoured Full-size Fennel Bulbs.
A market gardener’s lament 10/12/09
A question market gardeners often have is, “Why is it that when we have plenty of something, no one wants it; and why is it that when we are short, everyone wants it?” Last year we had plenty of Gold Nugget Squash; but this year we had a very short crop. True to form, demand this year has been so high, we have already run out. Sorry for any inconvenience! The reason for the short supply is that upon seeding our bedding plants in May, we realized our seed suddenly had very poor germination. Since no seed supplier continues to sell this exemplary variety, a quick order was not possible. We had to grow our own supply.
  
Titan Leeks, Burbank Huckleberries, and Fordhook Mustard
are some of the seeds we grow to share with the world.
Seed varieties Cookstown Greens is helping to save from extinction
Since we are not really in the business of producing seed, we prefer to purchase as much of our seed as we can. However, any preferred varieties not available from seedsmen, we must grow our selves. To help get these varieties back into production we gladly give samples to anyone who would like to take on the responsibility of maintaining these varieties.
Gold Nugget Squash was a very successful introduction by the University of North Dakota in 1935. But it is no longer available. So we must produce our own seed until someone else assumes the task. Another variety we have chosen to preserve is Non-Bitter Huckleberry developed over 100 years ago by the genius of Luther Burbank. Some of his varieties we still enjoy today are Russet (Idaho) Potato, Elberta Peach, and Santa Rosa Plum. Europeans have long considered pale green leaved Titan Leeks as the very best tasting summer leek. We agree. But the E.U. has ceased approving this variety for sale because they have defined leeks must have dark green leaves. How silly! Fordhook Fancy Mustard was developed by Burpee Seed Company in the early years of the last century to provide the “fanciest” mustard greens. They succeeded! But the seeds are no longer available except from Cookstown Greens.
With the new interest in superior local foods and the convenience of internet marketing, we expect all of these to once again become readily available. Thank you for helping to save these wonderful varieties from extinction.
Many ways to participate in World Food Week
There are several fascinating discussions about repairing our damaged food systems coming up next week. Make time to attend one or more of these events. Please click foodshare and harthous |
