We have been putting together a poster to demonstrate how we grow our premium produce.I thought you might like to see this work-in-progress for a view of Cookstown Greens from the air.
The top two fields are in the “New Farm” that we purchased in 2006.We have been growing plough-down crops that help convert soil fromthe previous cropping system of cash crops into soil better suited for the coming vegetable crops.Cash crops (corn-wheat-soybeans) require a preponderance of soil bacteria; vegetable crops do best with a fungal orientation.Summer Buckwheat is excellent for stimulating this conversion.These fields will be our primary production fields next year.
Below this you can see late seeded main crops of beets and carrots to be ready for November harvesting.Below this are summer cover crops of sorghum and sunflowers which provide tons of organic material to feed our army of soil organisms – bacteria, fungi, amoebas, protozoa, nematodes and of course earthworms.These in turn know how to provide our vegetable crops with exactly the nutrients they require to assure pest resistance, superior flavour, and extended shelf-life.
Below these are vegetable crops of Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes, squash, leeks, drying tomatoes, and peppers.Under the large blanket are winter radishes and turnips protected from insect pests.To the right of this are mid-summer crops of carrots and beets.Below this is our field of baby salad and mustard greens.The next fields have more cover crops to prepare the soil for future leafy greens.The greenish/grey coloured leaves are asparagus soaking up the summer sunshine in preparation for next spring’s harvest.
An aerial view of late-summer at the Cookstown Greens farm.
We hope you enjoyed your virtual tour; and start making plans to tour the real thing on the ground.
Sent: November 22, 2010
Best autumn harvest ever continues!
One of our earliest variety trials (in 1989 and 1990) was to determine the best leeks four our southern Ontario soil and climate.We quickly determined that hardy “winter leeks” tended to be too dirty for convenient use in busy kitchens and they were too tough to smoothly emulsify into fine food creations.“Summer leeks” were easier to keep the interior clean and their flavour and texture were much more delicate.From our point of view in the garden and from our chefs’ point of view in the kitchen, Titan Leeks were the clear choice.But in 1999 seed production for these was suddenly stopped.(Evidently “agricultural experts” banned the sale of Titan in the EU due to its pale green leaves – in the belief that dark coloured vegetables were more nutritious.)With no European market, seed companies immediately ceased providing the better tasting pale varieties.I immediately searched the world for the last remaining Titan Leek seeds.I obtained one little packet from a seed company in India.I continue to save this wonderful variety from extinction by going through the labour intensive four year process of growing these out for seed.These beauties are Now Available.
Winter Radishes are an under-appreciated class of vegetables.Unlike the common round-red forms, these can only be grown for fall harvests.They store very well in root cellars throughout the winter – hence their name.The stunning magenta flesh of round Valentine Radishes is sweet and only a little nippy raw; and absolutely scrumptious when lightly cooked (grilled, sautéed, or steamed).Green Flesh Radishes are a small daikon radish that has a propensity to push itself out of the soil into the sunlight and thereby turn green.(Prepare these in the same ways as red flesh ones.)The robust flavour of Black Icicle Radishes is for true radish connoisseurs.(They are superior in flavour and convenience to the more common round black radishes.)Red Icicle Radishes are like round-red types, but their carrot shape makes slices and julienne more convenient.All of these radishes can be deliciously quick-pickled, but be forewarned they become sulphurously smelly when stored overnight.
Baby turnips are not baby rutabagas!With the long springs enjoyed in Europe and Japan, turnips are considered a luscious spring specialty.Spring turnips are not practical with Ontario’s typically abbreviated springs.But our extended autumns provide exceptional turnips – and they store very well in our winter root cellar.So we get to enjoy their scrumptious flavour and beautiful colours all through the fall and winter.Baby White Turnips are the classic colour and mildest tasting.Quickly cooked Baby Red Turnips are red and white; slower cooking turns them a gorgeous pink.Baby Amber Turnips have wonderful cinnimony aroma.Long-thin purple-topped Japanese Turnips provide wonderful presentation ideas, and they also taste great.With all turnips, take care to not overcook them.Since many customers have prejudices agai
nst “turnips”, another moniker is advised – how about French navet, Scottish neep, Italian rapa, Spanish nabo, or Japanese kabu?
In 2002 and 2003 we tried a wide assortment of various coloured cippolinis.Both we and our chefs selected Red Cippolini Onions as the “best”.Then several terrible summers in Italy meant that no seeds were available – until this spring.In the mid-90’s we did trials on Dahlia Root varieties.Our favourite variety ceased being available in 2002.(I have not heard why.)Suddenly this year seed was once again available.Both of these wonderful vegetables are on our Now Available list.
Jerusalem Artichokes are exceptionally long and straight this year.
Canadian Culinary Book Awards
On opening day at the Royal Winter Fair, many of Canada’s “foodies” gathered to celebrate the best cookbooks.It was great to have a brief lunch with Vancouver chef John Bishop.He won this year’s Edna Award (along with a Governor General’s last June).He also accepted the Gold Award for editing recipes from 70 chefs in the Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia, Vancouver Cooks 2, (Douglas and McIntyre).
Haisai
Michael Stadtlander built Haisai Restaurant for his son; but he has chosen to return to Japan.In order to devote time for more creations, Michael recently told me he is now looking for a Chef de Cuisine (partner) to manage this exceptional 28 seat restaurant.
Sent: November 15, 2010
Best autumn harvest ever!
What a difference a year makes.Last fall’s October was so cold and rainy that most of our crops failed to finish growing at this critical time of year.November was like an October, but the damage had been done.We had our worst harvest ever.Brix levels (flavours) were down which meant what we did harvest would not keep well.So you surely noticed the severe shortage of roots in early spring.This year’s Brix measurements indicate better than ever flavour and we can expect longer than usual availabilities.
During the summer our Candy Cane and Golden Beets were the new more vigorous and somewhat better tasting Plant Variety Protection (PVP or patented) versions.However, we have learned that these do not store as well as the heritage varieties.Fortunately we were able to obtain enough of the heritage seeds for our storage crop.Red Cylinder and White Beets are still our tried and true varieties.
We usually have a serious problem with half the Japanese Red Carrots bolting (going to seed) before the roots mature.This is caused by temperature fluctuations beyond what the variety can tolerate.This summer’s glorious weather did in fact remind me of the steadily hot summerweather I once experienced in Japan.Absolutely none of our carrots bolted this summer.So we have plenty of your favourite red carrots!We were lucky enough to once again obtain the most recent version of the Black Carrots.The Bulgarian seed company, Bejo started re-creating the extinct Black Carrot about 10 years ago.We have been lucky enough to obtain the latest seeds each year.I hope you have been watching as each year they turn blacker and blacker.Once again we received absolutely beautiful Purple Carrot seeds from John Navazzio who continues to stand up to the threat of being sued by the University of Texas who claimed a patent on all purple carrots.(John was providing these long before the university made the claim.)There are no special stories attached to this year’s Yellow Carrots, White Carrots and Orange Carrots.
Some winter storage squash did great this year; other vartieties did poorly and we are nearly sold out of these.Pottimorron (lit. chestnut squash) is a luscious French favourite with lovely chestnut notes.Galeux D'Eysines has a warty pink skin with an elegant smooth texture.Try this in purees and velvety soups.Melonette not only looks like a sweet yellow melon, it also has an amazingly fruity aroma.Use this in squash desserts such as “pumpkin” pies and cakes.
To be continued with more stories about our winter storage vegetable seeds.
We don’t sell fish, but we are concerned about the big fish above!
Something does smell right with GE Salmon
Just when we thought that governments were beginning to realize the folly of jumping into bed with Genetic Engineering (GE) businesses, they are trying to do it again.There is certainly no shortage of food in the world.If there was a shortage, the price of food would be rising.It is not rising.The only ones who benefit from all the public money being spent on GE are a few wealthy companies.To learn more about GE salmon please read Are You Out of Your Mind?To learn more about the Canadian connection look at Plans to Produce GE Salmon Eggs in Canada.
Sent: November 8, 2010
Such a glorious autumn even the flowers are smiling
By the time November comes around it has normally become so overcast that we start running short of Edible Flowers.This is certainly not the case this year!Nasturtium Blossoms love this fall’s clear blue skies and cool temperatures.They look so happy that you need to share the joy with your customers.Their black pepper bite and aroma go well with any dish in any course.You can also get the same great flavour and aroma from Nasturtium Leaves as a chiffonade or blended in a “pesto”.Our Edible Flower Mix now contains scarlet red Pineapple Sage Blossoms with their stunning pineapple aroma.Another aromatic blossom now plentiful in the flower mix is the Lemon and Orange Gems.They don’t have a sour taste, but they certainly have an enchanting citrusy aroma.
Nasturtium Blossoms are climbing in the greenhouse.
Food Writing
It is great to see that the Stratford Chef’s School is addressing an important (but too often ignored) part of being a chef.Some of Canada’s best writers will be discussing the topic in Toronto on November 13.Please see the press release.On November 14 Note Bene restaurant will be hosting the school’s gala fundraiser.
Food Trends
Sustain Ontario and the Ontario Culinary Tourism Council have released a fascinating paper titled From Land to Plate.They discuss the dilemmas and victories of alternative food distribution in Ontario.The trends identified are:
1.Interest in local food is growing rapidly.
2.Interest in the origins of food is increasing.
3.Concerns over food safety and food related health problems are rising.
4.Consolidation and centralization have created opportunities for smaller producers.
5.There is a farm income crisis.
6.Processing infrastructure of an appropriate scale for local producers has been lost.
7.Local food is seen as a way to reduce dependency on fuel and reduce fuel costs in the food sector.
8.Consumers are seeking a return to taste and pleasure in food.
9.Food can help build strong local economies.
Local Food needs Local Processing
Ontario’s farmers and food processors suffered another setback recently when the J.M. Smucker Company announced it was moving its Bick’s pickling operations from the Ontario towns of Dunnville and Delhi to south of the border.This is just the latest in a seemingly ongoing string of food processing plant closures in recent years. Not only do these cost our economy manufacturing jobs – more than 200 full-time and part-time jobs in this case — but they also mean a loss of markets for farmers.Please read more.
Sent: November 30, 2009
The White Roots of Winter
Often white food equates with bland food. But there are exceptions. Properly cooked Parsnips cannot be accused of being tasteless. However, they can be excessively sweet. So we have selected a variety which provides more flavour notes and less sugar. (It also has a more convenient straighter shape.) Then we harvest them before they have been exposed to too many sweet inducing frosts. Parsley Roots comes from a special variety of Italian Parsley selected for its tasty white roots. Often used as an ingredient in fine stocks, we seed ours late in the season (mid-July) so they are still small and tender for their mid-November harvest. Serve them as an exquisite “carrot”. Heirloom White Carrots are not as sweet as their modern orange cousins. But they do present a savoury carroty flavour. These tend to grow above the soil surface thereby producing green shoulders – which unlike green potatoes, green carrots are neither bitter nor poisoness. Think of them as yet another brilliant carrot colour. The King of White Roots is Salsify. This member of the lettuce family provides a lovely delicate oyster-like flavour. It is so special that French chefs will simmer it in milk to serve as a course on its own! Sometimes its black rooted cousin, properly called scorzonerra, receives the salsify moniker. Though black may be more cosmetically appealing, we think true White Salsify has a more sophisticated flavour profile.
(L to R) Parsnip, Parsley, Carrot, and Salsify Roots
Updates to the Now Available list
Though November has been delightful, some of our crops have still not recovered from the unusually cold and wet October. So we have temporarily taken Green Flesh Radish and Japanese Turnips off the list. We have reduced the 100g pack size of Coriander Seedlings to 50g (and of course also cutting the price in half). We now have a supply of slightly misshapen carrots we call “seconds”. If you can use a minimum of 35 pounds, please call for price and availability of the specific colour(s) and size you can use.
Sent: November 23, 2009
Now is the time for Dahlia Roots
This popular summer flower provides us with delicious winter roots. Inside their tender brown skin is some juicy white flesh with a bright refreshing aromatic flavour. These can be enjoyed raw; or they can be cooked. But as with water chestnuts, they remain crunchy even after extended cooking. So why bother cooking them? Consider using these in appetisers, salads and desserts. If you wish to try some, please ask for a sample.
Dahlia Roots with some of their flowers.
Nothing New this week
We have just about finished our fall harvest. It was a long slow harvest as crops took their time to finish growing. We are still waiting for many of our final plantings to mature. As long as the weather remains mild and the nights not too frosty, most crops continue growing (albeit ever so slowly). Unfortunately, we have been harvesting some crops faster than they are replenishing themselves. So there is going to be very limited supplies of Chards and Kales. All the rainy weather in October delayed our greenhouse Chards for a couple more weeks. We apologize for any inconvenience.
A busy Slow Food Week ahead
The first week of December brings the Slowfood Toronto AGM on Sunday the 6th. This event will outline many of the coming Tasting, Cooking, Preserving, and Wisdom Workshops coming nearly every week of 2010. This is the best time to volunteer for helping manage the events which most interest you. So now is a good time to Join Slow Food in support of all their excellent work being done around the world. On Tuesday there is a reception at Hart House for Jeff Crump’s fine new book, Earth to Table. Antony John (Soiled Reputation), Ruth Klahsen (Monforte Cheese), Dyson Forbes (son of Jonathon, Forbes Wild Foods), and David Cohlmeyer will be on a panel to provide producers’ perspectives. Then on Thursday the 10th is the first annual World Terra Madre Day being held locally at Food Share. Local Producers will provide samples of their winter products. This event is paid for by the good work at last September’s Brick Works Picnic. It is a very busy time of year, but we hope to see you at these events.
Sent: November 16, 2009
Invited to the State Dinner with Prince Charles
Remembrance Day was a day to remember. First I attended the very moving ceremony at the Ottawa cenotaph. As a frequent supplier for the Governor General I was invited to attend Prince Charles’ final dinner on his recent tour of Canada. Black tie was a bit of a change for this market gardener. But it was fun to see many of Canada’s leading providers and supporters of premium local foods. Prince Charles is a knowledgeable advocate of the benefits of quality local and Slow Foods, so he played a part in making sure key food people attended this event. We thank him for the recognition.
Chef Louis Charest’s dinner opened with Lake Winnipeg Goldeye, Northern pike and western wild mushroom rillette served with Cortland apple prairie grain croquette, Saskatchewan mustard seed and colza oil emulsion [Ottawa Citizen]. After the main course, Cookstown Baby Salad Greens were served.
It is always enlightening to see Robert Clark from Vancouver’s C Restaurant. (As a sous chef in Toronto he loved helping out on our deliveries.) He very generously provided me with a copy of his stunning new C Food cookbook. It was also a treat to again be with Chris Aerni from New Brunswick’s Rossmount Inn. (As a Toronto chef he loved to visit our farm for Movenpickinspiration.) His mentor, Sinclair Phillip from Sooke Harbour House on the opposite side of the country, was also there. It was an honour to be with the always thoughtful Toronto restaurant critic, James Chatto. He is also coming out with an update of his most informative The Man Who Ate Toronto. And speaking of books, Anita Stewart, last week’s winner of the Cuisine Canada Food Culture Award for her book Anita Stewart’s Canada, was honoured by a seat at the head table. Ruth Klahsen artisan of the (soon to be back in business) Monforte Cheese had her Toscano cheese served to her while she wore an elegant long dress.
I also spoke with our Prime Minister, Speaker of the House, and Immigration Minister. It was most disappointing to hear how little they knew about food, and even more disappointing how much misinformation the have about food. We can only hope they absorb some of Prince Charles’ insight.
We are already nearly finished with large enough Baby Fennel Bulbs, Red Icicle Radishes, Cipollini Onions and Celeriac Roots. If the weather remains warm enough for the final planting to size up, we will have a bit more. But to avoid disappointment, we have decided to remove them from the Availability List. Chocolate Mint and beautiful liquoricy Sweet Cicely are again growing beautifully in the greenhouse.
Sent: November 9, 2009
The honour of a visit with Prince Charles
Last Friday down at the Brick Works construction site we participated in a chilly Farmers’ Market. [Going on at the same time was an Innovation, Leadership and Sustainability Forum attended by 105 CEOs from corporations across Canada and the US. They had a special meeting about what their corporations are doing and they would like to
