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Sent: November 30, 2009
The White Roots of Winter
Often white food equates with bland food. But there are exceptions. Properly cooked Parsnips cannot be accused of being tasteless. However, they can be excessively sweet. So we have selected a variety which provides more flavour notes and less sugar. (It also has a more convenient straighter shape.) Then we harvest them before they have been exposed to too many sweet inducing frosts. Parsley Roots comes from a special variety of Italian Parsley selected for its tasty white roots. Often used as an ingredient in fine stocks, we seed ours late in the season (mid-July) so they are still small and tender for their mid-November harvest. Serve them as an exquisite “carrot”. Heirloom White Carrots are not as sweet as their modern orange cousins. But they do present a savoury carroty flavour. These tend to grow above the soil surface thereby producing green shoulders – which unlike green potatoes, green carrots are neither bitter nor poisoness. Think of them as yet another brilliant carrot colour. The King of White Roots is Salsify. This member of the lettuce family provides a lovely delicate oyster-like flavour. It is so special that French chefs will simmer it in milk to serve as a course on its own! Sometimes its black rooted cousin, properly called scorzonerra, receives the salsify moniker. Though black may be more cosmetically appealing, we think true White Salsify has a more sophisticated flavour profile.
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 | (L to R) Parsnip, Parsley, Carrot, and Salsify Roots
Updates to the Now Available list
Though November has been delightful, some of our crops have still not recovered from the unusually cold and wet October. So we have temporarily taken Green Flesh Radish and Japanese Turnips off the list. We have reduced the 100g pack size of Coriander Seedlings to 50g (and of course also cutting the price in half). We now have a supply of slightly misshapen carrots we call “seconds”. If you can use a minimum of 35 pounds, please call for price and availability of the specific colour(s) and size you can use.
Sent: November 23, 2009
Now is the time for Dahlia Roots
This popular summer flower provides us with delicious winter roots. Inside their tender brown skin is some juicy white flesh with a bright refreshing aromatic flavour. These can be enjoyed raw; or they can be cooked. But as with water chestnuts, they remain crunchy even after extended cooking. So why bother cooking them? Consider using these in appetisers, salads and desserts. If you wish to try some, please ask for a sample.
Dahlia Roots with some of their flowers.
Nothing New this week
We have just about finished our fall harvest. It was a long slow harvest as crops took their time to finish growing. We are still waiting for many of our final plantings to mature. As long as the weather remains mild and the nights not too frosty, most crops continue growing (albeit ever so slowly). Unfortunately, we have been harvesting some crops faster than they are replenishing themselves. So there is going to be very limited supplies of Chards and Kales. All the rainy weather in October delayed our greenhouse Chards for a couple more weeks. We apologize for any inconvenience.
A busy Slow Food Week ahead
The first week of December brings the Slowfood Toronto AGM on Sunday the 6th. This event will outline many of the coming Tasting, Cooking, Preserving, and Wisdom Workshops coming nearly every week of 2010. This is the best time to volunteer for helping manage the events which most interest you. So now is a good time to Join Slow Food in support of all their excellent work being done around the world. On Tuesday there is a reception at Hart House for Jeff Crump’s fine new book, Earth to Table. Antony John (Soiled Reputation), Ruth Klahsen (Monforte Cheese), Dyson Forbes (son of Jonathon, Forbes Wild Foods), and David Cohlmeyer will be on a panel to provide producers’ perspectives. Then on Thursday the 10th is the first annual World Terra Madre Day being held locally at Food Share. Local Producers will provide samples of their winter products. This event is paid for by the good work at last September’s Brick Works Picnic. It is a very busy time of year, but we hope to see you at these events.
Sent: November 16, 2009
Invited to the State Dinner with Prince Charles
Remembrance Day was a day to remember. First I attended the very moving ceremony at the Ottawa cenotaph. As a frequent supplier for the Governor General I was invited to attend Prince Charles’ final dinner on his recent tour of Canada. Black tie was a bit of a change for this market gardener. But it was fun to see many of Canada’s leading providers and supporters of premium local foods. Prince Charles is a knowledgeable advocate of the benefits of quality local and Slow Foods, so he played a part in making sure key food people attended this event. We thank him for the recognition.
Chef Louis Charest’s dinner opened with Lake Winnipeg Goldeye, Northern pike and western wild mushroom rillette served with Cortland apple prairie grain croquette, Saskatchewan mustard seed and colza oil emulsion [Ottawa Citizen]. After the main course, Cookstown Baby Salad Greens were served.
It is always enlightening to see Robert Clark from Vancouver’s C Restaurant. (As a sous chef in Toronto he loved helping out on our deliveries.) He very generously provided me with a copy of his stunning new C Food cookbook. It was also a treat to again be with Chris Aerni from New Brunswick’s Rossmount Inn. (As a Toronto chef he loved to visit our farm for Movenpick inspiration.) His mentor, Sinclair Phillip from Sooke Harbour House on the opposite side of the country, was also there. It was an honour to be with the always thoughtful Toronto restaurant critic, James Chatto. He is also coming out with an update of his most informative The Man Who Ate Toronto. And speaking of books, Anita Stewart, last week’s winner of the Cuisine Canada Food Culture Award for her book Anita Stewart’s Canada, was honoured by a seat at the head table. Ruth Klahsen artisan of the (soon to be back in business) Monforte Cheese had her Toscano cheese served to her while she wore an elegant long dress.
I also spoke with our Prime Minister, Speaker of the House, and Immigration Minister. It was most disappointing to hear how little they knew about food, and even more disappointing how much misinformation the have about food. We can only hope they absorb some of Prince Charles’ insight.
We are already nearly finished with large enough Baby Fennel Bulbs, Red Icicle Radishes, Cipollini Onions and Celeriac Roots. If the weather remains warm enough for the final planting to size up, we will have a bit more. But to avoid disappointment, we have decided to remove them from the Availability List. Chocolate Mint and beautiful liquoricy Sweet Cicely are again growing beautifully in the greenhouse.
Sent: November 9, 2009
The honour of a visit with Prince Charles
Last Friday down at the Brick Works construction site we participated in a chilly Farmers’ Market. [Going on at the same time was an Innovation, Leadership and Sustainability Forum attended by 105 CEOs from corporations across Canada and the US. They had a special meeting about what their corporations are doing and they would like to be doing to participate in a greener and more humane planet. These are Prince Charles’ passions. Learn more.]
Much to the chagrin of the Prince’s handlers, he spent several minutes listening and conversing with each of the vendors. At one point he wanted to purchase a slice of Fifth Town’s sheep’s milk cheese, but upon realizing he had no cash, he asked Jim Flaherty (his host and Canada’s Finance Minister) to “spot” him $10 for the $9 slice. He also purchased a loaf of Red Fife bread from St. John’s Bakery after learning about the compassionate work this mission carries out. [Presumably these were for lunch on his upcoming flight to Victoria.] The Prince was charmed with vegetable-grower Ted Thorpe’s father who had shaken hands with the Prince’s grandfather in a pub during 1944. He was also fascinated with all the Direct Importing some of the market’s vendors undertake: Michael Sacco’s minimally processed Mexican chocolate, superb hand-rolled tea from Ronald Francis’ family estate in Sri Lanka, and Derek’s dedication for quality at Merchants of Green Coffee. The Prince smiled as he sampled some rare Civet coffee.
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 | from L to R: Nicky, Dave, Deb, Martin, and Derek, with Prince Charles
His visit to our table
We were joined with Martin Kouprie of Pangaea Restaurant who served Buffalo Tartar on our dahlia root slices. The Prince spoke about his pet project of re-popularizing mutton (which Martin had actually considered using in this presentation). As he knowingly admired our many fascinating vegetables and commented how beautiful our salad looked, Deb told him he would be served Cookstown Greens salad at the upcoming Governor General’s Royal Banquet. He rejoined “Marvelous, I always eat all my salad.” He asked me about how I dealt with all the challenges in introducing quality heritage local produce during the past 20 years. Actually I must say that my answers were directed more at the Minister of Finance, Jim Flaherty (who was standing next to the Prince). Our governments do keep us going with generous subsidies; but on the other hand they sure do not make it either reliable or easy.
What we harvested last week
The Crosnes sized up extra early this year. So a new crop of pristine white gems are now ready for your finest presentations. Since we figured out the best way to preserve them through the winter, you will be able to enjoy this garnish vegetable for many months. Salsify grew conveniently large this summer. It has now been through enough frosts to become delectably sweet. You will be able to savour these musky “oyster plants” all through the winter.
Sent: November 1, 2009
Squash are still in Season
Even though Thanksgiving and Halloween have passed, delicious squash is still in season. For something a little different from the standard varieties, consider potato-like Japanese Shishigatani Squash (for a unique “mashed potato”); sweet and fragrant Melonette Squash (perfect for desserts); chestnutty French Pottimorron Squash (perfect in hearty fall meals); and tart and dry Australian Baby Blue Hubbard (complements sugary garnishes). Brisk sales of Gold Nugget and Galeux, the two varieties we sold least of last year, were this year’s big hits. We appologize for running out. The old addage came true again: “Customers want what the farmer does not have.”
Shishigatani is a uniquely potato-like Japanese squash. Please ask for a sample.
New this Week
Now that they have been hit by enough frosts, we have pulled out our crop of Parsley Roots. These wonderful roots make a mighty fine vegetable on their own. Or they add a beautiful flavour in clear stocks or for flavouring a classic White Sauce. Celeriac Roots can be used the same ways.
2nd Annual Ontario Culinary Tourism Summit
The first summit was a great way to learn ways to participate in the coming new way to boost business. Plus it was a great way to see and meet other chefs and suppliers who are interested in promoting Ontario as a culinary destination. To find out more about this November 9 event at the Royal Winter Fair, please look at Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance.
Celebrating Fall
Cooler weather brings on the finest flavours and textures in leafy greens. This is best exemplified by our famous Baby Salad Greens. Until the heavy frosts arrive, we will have steady supplies of salad quality Mixed Arugulas, Hot Mizuna, Purple Mizuna and Mixed Asian Greens. Equally prime, but more suited for cooking are our popular Fordhook Mustard, creamy rich and visually appealing Rainbow of Chards, and fine sweet colourful Mixed Kales and creamy rich Bloomsdale Spinach. Get them on your menus now because after heavy frosts come (usually sometime in November), they are finished.
In addition to leafy greens, we now have the best tasting and most tender Baby Fennel Bulbs, luscious Baby Summer Leeks, and succulent Tulip Chives.
Tomatoes are finished, Now try some Heirloom Squash
For the past two years we have been trialing a number of heirloom squash. These have withstood the test of time. For us they need to taste great. This comes from the variety’s own genetics and their response to our healthy soil. Then they need to grow quickly enough and be reasonably resistant to pests in our northern climate. Finally they need to be reasonably productive and have a reasonably long shelf-life in our climate-controlled squash storage room. There are some amazing choices available from Seed Saver organizations. We have selected some of our favourites to bring to you:
· Gold Nuggets (?- 1 lb) are charming orange orbs with pleasantly flavoured dry flesh making them perfect for filling with a soup or stuffing; or as a single wedge in a fall presentation.
· Pottimorron (3-5 lb) are the famous French tear-drop squash meaning “chestnut pumpkin”. They definitely exhibit a wonderful rich and sweet chestnut flavour and aroma.
· Galeux d’Eysines (15-20 lb) has a distinctively warty pink skin. Inside is a semi-moist pale orange flesh with a mild but wonderfully lingering enchanting flavour.
· Shishigatani (4-6 lb) is a unique treasure from Japan. The dark green skin looks as though it has a tight belt. Inside is a nearly white flakey flesh reminiscent of the finest baked potato.
· Melonette (2-3 lb) has beautiful smooth yellow skin and gorgeous yellow flesh. Cooked, its flavour is pleasantly creamy, sweet and moist – reminiscent of a summer melon. This is the one for custardy pies.
· Sucrene du Berry (2-3 lb) is a green and tan pear shaped squash with moist, somewhat stringy flesh and a tantalizing flavour with agreeable tropical fruit notes.
Winter Roots are Ready
We have not yet figured out what made our root vegetables so delicious this year. Was it all the rain, the frequent thunderstorms, all the warm days and cool nights? Nevertheless our chefs report exceptional flavour and Brix measurements confirm this. Through the years we have experienced that better tasting roots also store longer. So we expect to keep you well supplied for many months. All our Potatoes, Beets, Carrots, Turnips, Radishes, Jerusalem Artichokes, Dahlia Roots, White Salsify, and Hard-Neck Garlic are now available. New vegetables you should try are carrot-shaped Japanese Turnips with cherry red shoulders and tender white legs. Another great new item is Redluscious Potatoes with dark red flesh and absolutely luscious flavour. A few more specialties will be ready when the weather turns colder.
Garnishing Leaves are now available in many single varieties. Take a look at the list to see what strikes your fancy.
Fall Vegetables at their Best
Fall greens are a comforting, attractive, easily prepared, and absolutely delicious side to your main courses. Rainbow of Chards are the most stunning. Frilly Russian Kales are sweet and tender and when quickly blanched look stunning on your plates. And heirloom Bloomsdale Spinach is still the best spinach variety ever developed. Cool days and nights sweeten our aromatic Wild Dandelion.
After a ten-year hiatus, we have finally found quality seed for Purple Brussels Sprouts. So we are now reintroducing this amazing fall garnishing vegetable. A drawback to freshly peeled garlic is small hard-to-peel cloves. Hard‑neck Garlic provides large easy-to-peel cloves and our bred-in-Ontario Music variety tastes just great.
Squash is another sign of fall. We continue providing our old standby Nugget Winter Squash. Its uniform small size makes it great as a container for fall soups. We have a good supply this year, so we can select just the right uniform size for memorable banquet soups. We have brought back creamy rich Chestnut Squash. Kikzuna Squash is a fine Japanese selection with a delightful hint of “green-tea”. Golden Acorn Squash is a cousin to ordinary Pepper Squash, but oh-so smooth and moist.
Short cloudy days of November and December always discourage our Edible Flower Mix and Edible Flowers Petals from blooming. So we will be short of flowers until sunny January days give the signal to resume “spring” blooming.
Our Winter Root Cellar is Full
Warm sunny days and chilly calm nights this past summer greatly delayed our summer fruits. But as is the way on the farm, these conditions were perfect for our winter root crops. So start using them now. Our full selection is ready.
Waxy and luscious Fingerling Potatoes are deservedly our most popular. Starchy Ratte Potatoes are ready to absorb rich sauces and drippings. Ask for large ones to prepare classic mashed potatoes. Stunning and luscious Black Fingerling Potatoes maintain their colour and texture. Maybe consider them as a garnish. Blue Potatoes are pale blue when freshly cooked; then turn a stunning royal blue after a few hours in the fridge.
Red, Purple, Black, Yellow, White, and Orange Nantes Carrots are at their luscious best (raw or cooked). For colourful preparations consider presenting them as a local alternative for imported peppers.
Golden Beets have a mellow flavour – even confirmed by “beet haters”. Candy Cane Beets look beautiful and taste great pickled in a marinade. White Beets make great “stainless” Borscht, Pickles, and Salads. Red Cylinder Beets can be cut length-wise for mysterious red strips; or quickly cut cross-wise into even slices.
White, Red, and Amber Turnips are all much more accepted than folk-wisdom would suggest. Just take care to avoid overcooking them. Our new Japanese Turnips are the totally delicious carrot-shaped heirloom Hinona Kabu. Closely related to turnips, is our selection of winter radishes. Red Valentine, Green Flesh, Black Icicle and Red Icicle Radishes are all lovely accompaniments in colourful winter salads, stunning garnishes, quick pickles, or amazing grilled vegetables.
In celebration of the season, get to know even more root vegetables. Parsley Roots grew quite large this year. So they are a most convenient flavouring for your soups and sauces. White Salsify is likewise conveniently large. Introduce your customers to its lovely delicate oyster-like flavour. Dahlia Root has a bright aromatic tang you can enjoy raw or cooked. Fuseau Artichokes are French Jerusalem Artichokes with very easy to peel skin (with no knobs). Request small ones for roasting whole; or large ones for chipping and pureeing.
Please visit our new Website!
It has been a long-time coming. But now you can begin exploring our extensive site. See our Now Available complete with colour photos of our many vegetables. Then read colourful descriptions in Your Best Buys. You can review our Ordering Procedure to learn why we need to be a little different. See luscious colour pictures of each of our varieties in Product Illustrations. Take a look at our staff as you learn About Us. Read How We Do What We Do to learn some of what we go through to steadily bring you premium produce. For a virtual tour click View Our Farm. A special feature is Maps and Directions to draw you directions from where you are to our farm. A feature many of you have been asking for is Future Availability consisting of an Annual Timetable and past monthly Now Available listings. These will be a helpful aid in preparing new menus. Then there are many past Updates (our periodic newsletters). Please read or reread them. If you have any comments, we will appreciate hearing from you!
It was a Great Summer
We have been very busy over the past few weeks bringing in the winter root crop. The cool winter-like airflows of October made for chilly working conditions, but it helped harden off our roots to perfection. Everything should be in good supply well into the Spring! So you can feel comfortable planning winter menus with steady availability through the winter. The only real failure this year was our Winter Nugget Squash. In a few weeks we begin planning and planting for next summer. Please let us know of any new crops you would like us to be growing.
Leafy Greens at their Peak, but not for long
Fall is the peak season for Leafy Greens. They lose their summer bitterness and take on cool weather sweetness. (The sugars are a defense from frosty nights.) (Speaking of frosty nights, keep in mind that Last-Minute orders cannot be picked on frosty mornings because the leaves need a few hours of thawing to heal. So please get your orders in early!)
Leafy Greens to consider are of course our most popular Rainbow of Swiss Chards. For the cool months also think of our Rainbow of Sweet Kales. For red leaves there is Red Treviso Chicory which is beautiful either raw or cooked. For large green leaves perfect for wrapping there is beautiful Romaine-like Sugarloaf Chicory. To great addition to any of these greens are Garlic Scapes.
Any of the above can be served raw. But the following are best raw in salads or as garnishes. Baby Arugulas and Baby Cresses both have sharp nutty bites. Green Hot Mizuna and Purple Mizuna are spicy new forms of this classic mild Mustard Leaf. For a less deeply cut but frilly leaved heirloom there is Fordhook Mustard< |
