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Sent: June 27, 2011
Extreme Weather Continues
We’ve had many queries how all the wet weather is affecting us this year. In a word: Challenging. Some crops are early; and other ones are late. There have been too many periods of excess cold (which slows growth); and some excess heat (which also slows growth). We sincerely apologize for occasional shortages we have inflicted on a few kitchens.
Through the years we have conscientiously worked on increasing our soil health (tilth
) and reducing soil compaction. We noticed a big change after five years of work; and now we are starting to notice another quantum change after ten years of care. Production becomes easier and flavour (as measured by customer comments and by Brix) increases. This has meant that despite all the rain, the soil has frequently been dry enough to plant whenever we have really needed to. So we are not expecting any more availability problems going forward.
However, three years of above normal rains are evidently leading to a problem. Most southern Ontario soils have a limestone base. This usually eliminates the acidic conditions most agricultural regions must endure. All the calcium from this limestone augments plant health, flavour and nutrients in Ontario produce. But we have begun to notice a new problem. Evidently the unusually large amount of water percolating through the soil is putting unusually high amounts of carbonate into Southern Ontario water supplies. This is not usually considered to be a problem. But due to a very complicated process it is starting to prevent greenhouse soils from leaching out excess sodium.
A waste water specialist has recommended lightly acidifying our water with citric acid in order to correct this situation. We are hoping this takes stress from our greenhouse tomatoes and this in turn lets you enjoy our superb tomatoes for a longer season.
Our new “sculpture” injects citric acid into irrigation water.
New This Week
Heirloom Baby Bloomsdale Spinach is still the best tasting spinach variety. Try some. Radish Pods are the fruit of the radish plant and the best way to enjoy this popular vegetable during the hot summer months when radish roots become rather acrid. (Consider serving these as edamame.) Garlic Scapes are a simple way to present the ingredient so many people either love or love to hate. Red Shiso Tips (sometime called Asian Basil) is a beautiful “new” flavour that has stood the test of time.
Sent: June 20, 2011
Last Week
There was no E-Newsletter sent out last week because our computer came down with a bad virus. All is well now. So here is last week’s missive.
An abundance of Leafy Greens returns
For the past five years Deb has been managing the seeding, harvesting, cleaning, and packing of our leafy greens. Anyone who has enjoyed our salad greens in recent years can understand her passion and commitment. With sufficient space to always have plenty of leafy greens just reaching maturity when orders come in, she is now ready to expand our ability to provide Custom Salads. She now wants to tell you about them:
Field grown leafy greens are back! It has been a great spring and all the varieties are doing well. I enjoy being out of the winter greenhouses and into the summer fields. We will have plentiful supplies until the end of October. To ensure optimum crispness, we hand-cut all our greens from sunrise and finish before mid-morning. This, along with careful selection of seed varieties, two years of plough-down-crops between harvests, and weekly reseeding of each variety ensure that our “leafies” always taste great and remain fresh for a very long time.
Over the past few years we have had numerous requests for Custom Salads; and have been quietly doing this for several Toronto restaurants and hotels as well as the Governor General. One of my favourites was the Terra Cotta Soldier Salad for the ROM.
Take a look at our list of leafy greens as well as seedlings and herbs to create your own Custom Salad. Call Deb at (705) 458-9077 or email me deb@cookstowngreens.com to discuss your needs. We will figure out a fair price based on your ingredients, leaf size and volume – typically it is $1-2 per portion.
I am looking forward to making your signature salad.
Deb
Deb always has many outdoor leafy greens ready for your own signature salad.
A Culinary Map
It is rather American-Media- Centric, but this Subway Map is a fun snapshot of our industry.
Films that Move
George Brown College Hospitality School is hosting a Panel Discussion about changing our food system on Saturday morning June 18. It is good to see an interest in this sort of program, but it always seems incomplete to talk about our food system without someone representing the foundation of our food system – the farmers.
Sent: June 6, 2011
Considering the 2011 Agriculture Census
I have just completed our contribution to the 2011 Agriculture Census. Unfortunately, the analysis of this is not expected to be released for another 2½ years. So I thought I should share my thoughts on the 2006 census released in December 2008. I fully expect the trends of past agricultural censuses to continue.
Ontario’s farm population continues its long decline – down another 6% from the last census (2001). It is now only 1.5% of the Ontario population. In 1931, 1 of every 3 Canadians lived on a farm; by 2006, this ratio had fallen to 1 out of every 46. With such a dearth of votes, the only way to rationalize our food system in our democratic society is for policies to be initiated and followed through by city-people.
The median age of Canadian farmers has continued rising to 51 years (the highest of all occupations in Canada); meanwhile the whole labour force average is 41 years. (The average farmer is 56 years old.) Quebec, with much more generous support for young farmers, has only 7% over 65 years; while Canada as a whole, has 11% of farmers over 65. Since there is a lot of experiential knowledge required in farming, we all need to be concerned that this knowledge is not being transferred to future farmers.
Farm families report a median income of $56,000, only 13% less income than general population families. But 46% of farm operators list their main occupation as non-agricultural. 62% of farmers’ income comes from off-farm wages; while farm income averages a mere 6% of their income! The difference is made up of government pension and child benefits, investment income, and non-farm self-employment. We just cannot allow something as important to our security and health as food, to be relegated to imports or a tiny fraction of our farmers’ income.
Even though immigrants represent an increasing share of the general population (from 15% in 1971 to 20% in 2006); they represent a steadily decreasing share of our farm population (8.5% in 1971 to 7% in 2006). Immigrants bring with them a wealth of knowledge for growing many new crops we do not need to import.
Children of farmers are not taking over the family farms. There is just not enough profit in producing foods to entice them to work two full-time jobs to make ends meet. Wanna-be-farmers and immigrants do not have access to the land and quota required to begin sustainably producing local foods. As a result, existing farmers with their wealth of local knowledge are often unable to pass on this valuable wisdom.
City-folk must assume the responsibility to alleviate this situation by refusing cheap food dumped from the US and other countries. At the same time our farmers must refuse to sell their food at losses. There is absolutely no logic for Canada to continue indulging in the cheapest food in the world.
Early June in Greenhouse D: Waiting for Rainbow of Tomatoes to ripen,
Mini-Bell Peppers waiting to be transplanted into the field,
and waiting for Potatoes to break dormancy before planting.
But you don’t have to wait for everything
In addition to Breakfast Radishes and Easter Egg Radishes with their fresh green leaves still on, Baby White Turnips also with their delicious leaves still attached are now ready. This is the week for lusciously liquoricey Sweet Cicely Pods and for Purple Chive Blossoms. Also starting this week are beautiful Red Vein Dandelion leaves for slightly bitter salads and refreshing cooked greens. Now that our salad green garden is in full production, we are once again offering Simply Cookstown. This salad blend contains only leafy greens – i.e. no seedlings. In a few days Asparagette garnishing spears and cookable Welsh Onion Blossoms will be ready for your enjoyment. We’ve had a very long carrot season, but this is about the last week for storage carrots. You will have to wait until late July for the new crops of colourful carrots.
Sent: June 28, 2010
Culinary Arts have Now joined literature, visual and media, architecture, journalism, and the performing arts
The Governor General recently presented the first annual Awards in Celebration of the Nation’s Table. A few weeks ago I learned that I was one of the first chosen honourees. We were asked to keep it quiet so I had no idea who else had been selected. Upon seeing who else arrived early at Rideau Hall in their tuxedos, I quickly realized that I was in good company. Then members of the Advisory Committee, who had nominated us, arrived. This was quite enough of a surprise and a tribute. But then, not unlike a surprise birthday party, hundreds of guest “foodies” greeted us in the grand ballroom. WOW, what a thrill!
After the ceremony, the entire residence (with its magnificent Canadian art collection) and the elegant gardens of Rideau Hall were opened to everyone. Food, drink and music flowed in every room. Louis Charest’s brigade, with assistance from Stratford high-school students, imaginatively presented the best foods from all over our wonderful country. Louis honoured Cookstown Greens with a full table of elegant presentations of every vegetable we now have available (albeit rather limited at this time of year).
James Chatto's Blog describes the proceedings more poetically than anyone else. James, a member of the Advisory Committee, confirmed to me that he had been fired after 23 years of exemplary writing for Toronto Life. The reason given was that there was no longer a place for long-form journalism. If this is actually the case, we in the hospitality business really need to work at making our stories more interesting. If Toronto Life editor Sarah Fulford is wrong about this, shame on her.
Dave proudly showing his Governor General’s Award plaque.
For nominating me, I want to give a special Thank You to Chris Aerni from New Brunswick’s Rossmount Inn. We worked closely together when he was Chef in the early days at Yorkville’s Movenpick Restaurant. Other members of the advisory committee I also want to thank Anita Stewart for her constant encouragement ever since she came to help pull weeds on the farm during our first summer in 1988. Robert Clark, now chef at Vancouver’s C restaurant and author of C food, but a big volunteer help with deliveries during our first years. And once again, thank you to fellow honourees Sinclair and Frederique Phillip from Sooke Harbour House for such generous assistance in getting me started.
New This Week
Summer produce is getting a nice early start this year. A highlight this year is Shelling Peas. Freshly shelled peas are an absolute joy. Cheap ones available in the market are machine harvested ones which were pulled from the line that was bound for the freezer. Varieties which need to be hand-picked are markedly superior. (To learn more about Garden Peas, please read my recent article in Edible Toronto.) Also starting now are Radish Pods which are great raw or quickly blanched and served like edamame. We also now have Red Shiso Leaves and Red Shiso Tips for an exotic oriental basil flavour. We are also now harvesting Mixed Lettuces for use as a base for your own special salads. And once again Rainbow of Chards are now fully available.
Coming Next Week
Rainbow of Cherry Tomatoes are tasting better than ever. Squash Blossoms, Baby Leeks and Baby Fennel are nearly ready. Also you can now start looking forward to Candy Cane Beets, Purple Carrots and Orange Nantes Carrots. If you don’t require too many, ask Nicky if we can supply you this week.
Sent June 21, 2010
Who is going to feed us?
Joe Born learned how to produce great tasting food on his family’s mixed farm in post-war Yugoslavia. Many chefs have bought produce from him and many have commented on its superior flavour and long shelf-life. Through the years Joe has been very willing to share his techniques with me (and anyone else who had the interest to ask).
Last week I went to a nursing home to visit my friend and mentor. Joe has had cancer for the past year and now it has spread to his brain. He doesn’t have much time to live, so I am very pleased to have seen him while he is still coherent. As usual, he gave me another tip – to prevent potato bug infestations, plant onion skins beside the potato seeds. But this time he asked me a question. Do you know anyone who can purchase my farm? Neither his son nor grandson wishes to farm so they will sell his absolutely wonderful soil to whoever pays the going price per acre. He lamented that young farmers who could make good use of this superior organic soil have neither the savings nor government supports nor the determination to carry on Joe’s venture. Concerned, Joe asked, “Who is going to feed us?”
Also last week I dropped in to see Allan Kell from whom I have purchased much of our most useful farm equipment. He always took the time to make sure this neophyte bought just the right pieces. But with fewer and fewer farmers, he eventually had to close up shop. Not having his wise advice and local availability has meant longer emergency trips to replace broken parts. Allan now suffers from Parkinson’s disease so it is becoming too difficult for him to maintain his hobby collection of mint Allis Chalmers tractors. On December 11 they will be auctioned off to buyers from across North America. He too laments, “Who is going to feed us?”
Last week the Metcalf Foundation released several publications about the future of agriculture. Since I am on the Advisory Council of Sustain Ontario I am pleased to see the publication of Menu 2020: Ten Good Food Ideas for Ontario. Because I have taught courses for Farm Start, I hope you will also take the time to read their publication New Farmers and Alternative Markets. Both of these publications are very relevant for chefs’ understanding of issues concerning an ongoing source of local ingredients.
Allan Kell’s vintage Allis Chalmers tractors parked on his lawn for all to see,
Newly Available This Week
Green Garlic is finishing; but Garlic Scapes are now beginning. We will have them available throughout the summer and fall. Both White and Green Asparagus are finishing their normal rite of spring as we stop harvesting and permit the plants to regenerate for next spring.
It’s the bee’s knees
As bees in agricultural areas around the world decline, bees in urban and mountain areas (without all the pesticides) are thriving. The all-important bee population at Cookstown Greens has been declining, so we now have hives on the farm to be sure our summer tomatoes, squash, husk cherries, huckleberries, and radish pods always have sufficient pollination. To understand the value of these wonderful creatures, you should attend The Pollinators Festival at Evergreen Brickworks on Sunday June 27.
Sent June 14, 2010
The public is loving Farmers’ Markets
As people begin to understand and appreciate quality ingredients, they are flocking to the many new farmers’ markets throughout Toronto. We have chosen the Saturday morning Brick Works Farmers' Market to provide our produce for the public. We benefit by getting quick and honest feedback from the very appreciative customers. We also get a chance to share our experiences with other farmers. Of course Brick Works is an absolutely charming educational and child-friendly oasis in the city.
We have found the farmers’ market to be a good place to sell items we only have in limited supply – next week there may be the season’s first Sugar Snap Peas and Strawberries. To spread the joy these are sure to provide, we are packing bags with small quantities of mixed seasonal produce. A drawback to our popularity is that we often run out of many items by 10:00am. To rectify this annoyance, we are getting ready to supply a weekly pre-paid box of seasonal produce.
Come join other chefs (and their families) looking for special vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, artisanal cheeses, fresh water fish, meats, breads, and direct-imported chocolates, coffee and teas. All are from Southern Ontario!
Bonnie Sterns’ Cooking School Students love learning about what can be found at farmers’ markets.
At Brick Works they found the Drake Hotel’s chef Anthony Rose and Cookstown Greens’ Deb Mackay.& |
