Most of the opposition to Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) had been lulled into a false sense of security by the many recent failures of this grand experiment with our food.Potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, papaya, squash, sweet corn and wheat have all been incredibly expensive experiments gone awry.The sad part is that tax payers have paid for all this; but if any were to become successful only a few huge corporations would benefit.
Last Thursday’s USDA announcement of the approval for widespread use of GMO Alfalfa came as a devastating shock to many Organic farmers at the conference.They have built their careers providing organic meats and crops.Since alfalfa is pollinated by bees, these unproven genes will quickly and irreversibly contaminate fields for miles around each planting.Organic certifications will be revoked.The purpose of this development is to permit use of Monsanto’s proprietary Roundup herbicide which will kill every plant but the alfalfa.There goes the biodiversity which is the cornerstone of earth’s ecology.On top of this, there is mounting evidence that impurities in Roundup are causing serious soil-life issues.
In addition to all this, there was talk of the imminent release of Syngenta and Guelph University’s Enviropig.It uses GMO e.coli bacteria and mouse DNA to reduce pollution from industrial pig production.Do you really want to present this weird experiment on your dinner plates?Many farmers at the Guelph Conference were literally in tears over this prospect.
Beets have also been getting a “makeover”.
Hybrid Beets are replacing Heirlooms
Last year it became difficult to obtain seeds for some of our tried-and-true heirloom beets.(Candy-Cane Beets were first released in 1805 in Chioggia Italy.)We reluctantly tried the new hybrid beets developed by Syngenta (the same Swiss agribusiness behemoth mentioned above).They did grow better and tasted better.But we found they did not store as well as the heirlooms.So this year we went out of our way to import some expensive heirloom seeds for winter storage use.
A few weeks ago we were using up our final hybrid production and started noticing mouldy tops and hard, black interiors.After some research we discovered that we had a rarely seen beet disease called phoma.It shows up two to three months after harvest.The disease presumably arrived on the new hybrid seeds.The disease seems to have spread to adjacent heirloom beds.These are not afflicted as badly, so we may miss removing infected roots during packing.If you have a problem, please let us know so we can give a credit for mouldy black roots.Thank you for your support.
Sent: January 24, 2011
A Green Opportunity
The rumours are true.Cookstown Greens is now being offered For Sale as a Going Concern.Having turned 65, it is time for me to reduce my business responsibilities and begin to explore other interests.
The 95 acres of excellent land (one hour north of Toronto), all buildings (including greenhouses and living quarters), the full complement of appropriate farm equipment, irrigation permit and system, all written procedures, records and contacts, as well as the reliable, award winning business, the well-respected brand, and an amazing view are all listed for sale at only $1.2 million.Our knowledgeable, motivated and very capable employees are all eager to continue operating the business.And I am willing to remain involved as long as required to bring about a successful transfer of ownership.
For the past 22 years we have steadily increased production, sales and reputation.Seven years ago we moved the entire operation to our current location.Now we are beginning to realize the increased margin we looked forward to when we moved to this “New Farm” – minimal need for fertilization, reduced requirements for labour-intensive hand weeding, near-elimination of pest problems, easy-to-work rock-picked soil, and of course continually improved flavour and extended shelf-life.
Here is an opportunity to fulfill a dream.
To maintain the leadership that Cookstown Greens brings to Ontario’s hospitality industry, there are many ways to leverage this sale into its full potential:
An innovative hotel PR team could promote its “own farm” on menus.
A creative restaurant could obtain custom fed meats, unique cheeses and special produce.
A premium winery could confirm its obvious link with premium food.
A quality distributor could become the supplier of “the most respected” local produce.
An on- farmInn (the dream of many a chef) could be built in the fields to become a local hub.
A retail store could be assured of distinctive produce to sell, process, and distribute.
A specialty processor could have reliable access to many unique local ingredients.
A starting farmer (1st or 2nd career) could immediately build on a well established business.
A chefs’ school could have a demonstration farm to reveal the best of Ontario.
Another farm could link with Cookstown Greens as an entrée to the high-end market.
A gourmand “angel” could have bragging rights for owning the “best market garden”.
Or a creative group of these could band together to bring the business to the next level.
Time may be of the essence.Please connect with your acquaintances.Then feel free to share your thoughts with each other and with me.
Last week I mentioned the 30th Annual Guelph Organic Conference.I was particularly interested in seeing a fellow specialty produce grower from Vermont (who sells to chefs in Boston and New York) present a session on winter greenhouse growing, (and later coming to our farm).A few days ago Pete’s Greens suffered a tragic fire in his main building.He lost all his storage vegetables and all his frozen meats.Needless to say, he can no longer come to the conference.I have agreed to present a session on Winter Greenhouse Salad Growing for him.Perhaps you’d like to attend?
Until a couple years ago, amaranth a.k.a. “pigweed” was the worst weed in our fields.It indicated excess potassium.(The previous owner had used our fields to dump high potassium pig manure – thus the common name for this weed?)The botanical name is Amaranthus.This amazing family of plants is enjoyed around the world.In Greece it is boiled and served with the requisite olive oil and lemon juice.It is the esteemed callaloo of Jamaica used as the base ingredient in Pepper Pot Soup savoured every Saturday afternoon.Amaranth is also an important leafy green featured in many of India’s cuisines.In China both the stems and leaves are stir-fried.In Africa it is a common boiled accompaniment to their many starchy dishes.
After several years of working to reduce our soil’s potassium level, we now have another worst weed – “lamb’s quarters”.This indicates good phosphorous levels which come from (you guessed it) sheep manure.Botanically this is a Chenopodium.The leafy green is also used in many parts of the world; most notably it is the “spinach” of Iceland.The leaves are interchangeable with amaranth leaves, though I find the lamb’s quarters more agreeably creamy tasting.
In South America the seeds of both plants are used as a “grain”.They contain much more balanced protein than cereal grains (wheat, rice, rye, etc.) and contain none of the increasingly problematic gluten.Cook 1 part amaranth or quinoa (the Andean word for chenopodium seeds) in 2 parts boiling water until softened (about 15 minutes).Serve as a wonderfully nutty flavoured rice.You may also eat the milky flavoured mature roots.
So far we have only had demand for tiny Amaranth Seedlings to be used for garnishing.We have trialed many varieties through the years.We even accessed several heritage varieties from the Rodale Institute Seed Bank.Nothing was really satisfactory for a steady year-round supply until seed-breeder extraordinaire, Oregon’s Frank Morton, created Burgundy Amaranth.Try some.Next summer you might try some of our delicious pigweed and lamb’s quarters.
Amaranth coloured amaranth can be a stunning garnish on you plates.
Huge Organic Conference is held in Guelph
January 29th is probably the best day to attend arguably North America’s largest 4-day organic conference.It addresses the needs of both farmers and consumers.So each year we usually see several of our chefs.There are workshops for just about any interest.And the huge free trade show itself can take a whole day to explore.For more details, go to their website.
Sent: January 10, 2011
The Winter Farm Conference Season has Begun
January through March is the time for farmers to share experiences and learn about new insights from experts.For me it started last week at the Central Ontario Agricultural Conference.There were full-day meetings on Dairy, Beef, Poultry, Sheep, Horses, Cash Crops (corn, soy and wheat), Maple Syrup and Organic/Farm Fresh.I of course attended the Organic meeting.
The first thing I noticed was the continuing reduction in the number of ecological farmers.I suspect the reason for this is that most new farmers are too undercapitalized to make sufficient returns in our cheap-food markets.Farmers on the Sustainability & Prosperity panel talked about the benefits of making significant investments in their direct marketing operations.
Honourable M.P. Wayne Easter, Liberal Agriculture Critic (and former Minister of Agriculture) conducted an interesting Q&A on the proposed Canadian National Food Policy.As the world navigates its way through population, climate, energy, and economic changes, Canada definitely needs some agreed upon guidelines.Farmers are (reluctantly) beginning to add their own voices.I hope that Chefs also let their voices be heard.Mr. Easter discussed highlights of the proposed Liberal Party Food Policy.Sadly, I did not hear anything new.He was questioned about reinstating the dramatic 2004 cuts (83%) in government supports that ecological farmers were eligible for.He replied that there is still “no mood in Ottawa for spending any more on food”.But he did say he would be supporting moves to stop the illegal "dumping" of heavily supported foods from the US, Europe, and China.He went on to say that Canada has been the acquiescent “Boy Scout” for way too long.He expects that more equitably priced imports will finally permit Canadian farmers to charge a fair price in our local markets.
A highlight of the day was a presentation by Richard Heinberg from the well respected Post Carbon Institute.He gave a clear explanation of why we have now reached Peak Oil – and what the implications will be.Then he took it a step further.A hundred years ago agriculture was a net creator of energy (calories); now it takes (an unsustainable) 7.3 calories to produce just one calorie of food energy.Since nearly all this extra energy comes from oil, Peak Oil also means Peak Food.
Mr. Heinberg then summarized what it is going to take to prevent serious shortages of food in the near future.Local ecological farmers are already doing what needs to be done on our farms.Chefs who use seasonal local ingredients prepared with minimal processing are already doing what needs to be done in our kitchens.The problem is that North America will soon be requiring several million new farmers and several million new chefs who understand the necessary changes.Right now, as was exemplified by the meeting last week, the numbers are decreasing.
Inspired by the ever-growing popularity of our Asian Salad and our Seedling Salad, we have created a new aromatic blend.Asian Seedling Salad contains red and green daikon radish, coriander, mitsuba,green and purple basil, and red amaranth.Beautiful and delicious!
Happiness
With all the talk these days about happiness, it was only a matter of time before there would be a movie about this elusive subject.The Economics of Happiness will be released in Toronto on January 24.The synopsis indicates that food is an important aspect of happiness.
Sent: January 3, 2011
Ontario’s own contribution to the worlds Food Basket
Jerusalem Artichokes seem to be more appreciated around the world than they are in their own home.Just about any dish you can prepare with potatoes can be made with Jerusalem Artichokes.Plus they can even be served raw.Quick Pickled Artichokes are a great start.
I suspect a big reason they are not so popular with chefs is that normally available "J.chokes" are too knobby for easy cleaning, peeling and slicing.At Cookstown Greens we have chosen to grow a premium French selection, Fuesau.To grow these more conveniently large we take the extra effort to start a new planting of this hardy perennial every year.This also entails a subsequent two year process of getting rid of the many volunteers that keep on trying to grow.We also plant these on an exceptionally large grid (4’ x 9’) so that each plant can comfortably grow to its full size.Both these extra steps require extra effort for us; but this in turn means less effort for you.
For additional information about this insufficiently known vegetable, please read the article about Jerusalem Artichokes that I wrote in the current issue of Edible Toronto.
Upper: Typical knobby Chokes that are no fun to clean, peel and slice.
Lower: Large smooth-skinned variety that we have selected for our Chefs’ convenience.
The cover photo on this 2011 Winter issue is a frosty picture I took of our two most popular mustards – Fordhook and Purple Mizuna.
Is this a Day to Celebrate or to be Concerned about?
We will soon be hearing about Food Freedom Day coming on February 12.This is the day that Canadians will have earned all the income they need to purchase all the food they will consume throughout the year.With the cheapest food in the world, Canada has the earliest date for this dubious “celebration”.Since there is no economic reason why Canada should have the cheapest food in the world, most of us in the food industry are bearing the brunt of our government’s crippling Cheap Food Policy.
It may be too early in the year to start thinking about “Freedom Days”, but a very important one comes up this week.Farm Freedom Day, the day on which Canadians will have earned all the income necessary to pay our farmers for the full year, comes on January 9!Will you be celebrating, or crying about this unsustainable situation.
Sent: January 25, 2010
A work in progress
We have found seeds for most of the heritage carrots – Japanese Red, Croatian Yellow, Afghan Purple, Belgian White, and French Orange. But one colour remains elusive. I have spoken with East Indians, Iranians, and Egyptians who all remember Grandma’s Black Carrot Marmalade. But they have all been unable to find any seed for us to try. (This search continues as cookbook author Naomi Duguid is currentlyon the lookout for these as she is once again traveling through South Asia. Good luck Naomi!) Meanwhile, a Bulgarian seed company is in the process of re-creating this seemingly lost jewel. You may have noticed that as each year passes, their Black Carrots (which we grow) are becoming darker and darker. Soon they will be dark enough to make Black Carrot Marmalade. Meanwhile, all the “off-types” are absolutely gorgeous and perfectly delicious.
It is great to finally observe a reversal (albeit very small)in the headlong extinction of vegetable varieties. Seed Savers Exchange calculates over 95% of the varieties listed in catalogues 100 years ago are now extinct! Most of these varieties were popular because of their fine flavour. Nowadays the priorities are high yield [i.e. cheap to grow] and long shelf-life [i.e. easy to import from the cheapest producers]. The best way to reverse this process is to make efforts to simply request and use of the best tasting varieties. You don’t have to settle for generic orange carrots.
The return of the Black Carrot is a work-in-progress.
